Sidel on IR Lamp News

Compatible lamp for Sidel Combi SF300

Mon, 27 Jul 2026 15:18:48 +0800

Getting Your Sidel Combi SF300 and Matrix Lamps Right

Keeping your PET blowing consistent is a headache, especially when you’re dealing with different machine generations. You need the heat to be exactly right—not too hot, not too cold. That’s why we built our lamp series to be a direct swap for the Sidel Combi SF300 and the Matrix line. They fit the original footprint perfectly. No modifications, no drilling, no fuss.

Replacement lamp for Sidel blowing machine

Tue, 21 Jul 2026 00:11:19 +0800

Can a few new lamps actually speed up an old Sidel machine?

If you’re running an older Sidel blower, you’ve probably noticed things slowing down. The cycle speeds aren’t what they used to be. It’s easy to just shrug and say, “Well, the machine is old,” but that’s usually not the whole story. Most of the time, the real problem is just how the heat is moving. If your lamps are tired, your preforms aren’t getting the heat they need fast enough. That’s where swapping in some high-density shortwave infrared elements comes in. It changes the whole heating profile. Let’s talk about the heat. To get more bottles out the door every hour, you have to hit that PET glass transition temperature fast. We build our replacement lamps with a specific wattage-to-length ratio to really crank up the radiant flux. Basically, when you move from a standard element to a high-wattage halogen quartz tube, you’re packing more heat into every square millimeter. The result? You can shorten the time the preform spends in the heating tunnel without sacrificing quality. The nuts and bolts We use heavy-wall quartz glass because high heat makes cheap tubes bow. You don’t want that. As for the installation, it’s pretty painless. Most of our units use R7s or SK15 connectors, so they just slide right in. You won’t have to spend your weekend rewiring the control cabinet. Plus, the halogen cycle inside the tube keeps the tungsten filament from evaporating too quickly. It keeps your heat steady across the oven, which means fewer rejects. But there’s a catch. More wattage means faster heating, but it also puts more pressure on your power. If you’re swapping a 1500W lamp for a 2500W one, you’ve got to make sure your power supply can handle the extra current. And here is the big one:your cooling fans. When you pump more heat into the oven, the fans have to work harder to keep things balanced. If your vents are clogged or your cooling is undersized, the ambient heat will build up. That’s a recipe for deformed preforms. Just double-check your current draw and your airflow before you flip the switch. Once the cooling is dialed in, you can tighten up those cycle times and finally see your output climb.

Compatible Sidel SBO6 heater lamp

Fri, 17 Jul 2026 00:26:11 +0800

Getting More Out of Your Old SBO6 Machines

If you’re running mid-tier PET blow molding machines, you probably know the frustration of hitting a wall with your old SBO6 units. You want more bottles per hour. Simple, right? But the machine is already screaming at max speed and you can’t push it any further. Usually, the culprit is the heating oven. When your preforms aren’t hitting the right temperature consistently, you end up with those annoying wall thickness variations or that cloudy, pearlescent look that ruins a batch. The secret is in the heat. Swapping out your standard lamps for high-output infrared tubes completely changes how your oven breathes. We’re talking about short-wave radiation here. These lamps blast energy in a narrow spectrum that PET just drinks up. When you jump to a higher wattage, you’re increasing the heat flux. In plain English? Your preforms get to blowing temperature way faster. This gives you a choice: you can crank up the conveyor speed to pump out more bottles, or you can actually lower the oven temp and save some money on your power bill. But don’t just buy any tube. A replacement for the SBO6 has to fit perfectly. We use high-purity quartz glass because it doesn’t burn out nearly as fast. You also need to keep an eye on the connectors—usually R7s or SK15. They need to handle the current without pitting or sparking. Here is a heads-up: if you move to a higher voltage or wattage, check your wiring. A 2500W tube puts a lot more stress on your contactors than a 1500W one. If your electrical panels are ancient, they might start to overheat under the extra load. The “Gotchas” Better lamps aren’t a magic wand. High-density IR heat can actually create “hot spots” if your reflectors are dirty or oxidized. Think of it like a mirror. If the mirror is cloudy, the energy just bounces away. You only get that extra speed if the reflectors are pushing that heat back into the plastic. Do yourself a favor and scrub your reflectors clean before you put the new lamps in. Otherwise, you’re just paying for electricity you aren’t using. And one last thing—keep an eye on your airflow. More heat in the oven means your cooling fans have to work harder to strip that heat away. Make sure they’re humming along properly.

Sidel SBO 24 Series 2 infrared radiator

Mon, 06 Jul 2026 01:13:58 +0800

Sidel SBO 24 Series 2 Infrared Radiator: A Straight Swap for Krones Lines

We built the Sidel SBO 24 Series 2 infrared radiator for one simple reason: to give you a no-drama replacement when Krones Contiform maintenance costs start climbing. It’s designed as a direct, drop-in fit—same thermal performance, same mechanical footprint—so you can keep your PET blowing running without overthinking it. Just swap it in and get back to work.